• Haute Route of Monte Rosa - Spaghetti Tour

  • Haute Route of Monte Rosa - Spaghetti Tour

  • Haute Route of Monte Rosa - Spaghetti Tour

  • Length

    6 days

  • Where

    Monte Rosa massif

  • Number of participants

    Max. 3 per Guide

  • Price

    1250 € pp

A round trip at high altitude that will lead us through the massif of Monte Rosa, starting from Champoluc and reaching Gressoney.

A trip between peaks over 4000 meters, vast glaciers and majestic faces …. this tour is surely one of the most spectacular in the Alps. The drops in altitude are never excessive, because huts offer starting points from already high altitudes ….

An opportunity to reach the summit of twelve 4000 ms peaks; in fact, we will climb in sequence: Western and Central Breithorn, Pollux, Castor, Lyskamm Nose, Vincent Pyramid, Balmenhorn, Schwarzhorn, Ludwigshohe, Parrot, Punta Gnifetti, Zumstein … and we will finally sleep at the highest hut you can find in the Alps: Capanna Margherita, at almost 4600 m.

In summary, a giant summits’ tour!

DatesLengthPriceAvailability
On demand6 days1250 € ppyes

The price includes: IFMGA Mountain Guide fees and expenses, half-board in huts (breakfast, dinner, night) for 5 nights.

The price does not include: lifts, extras, anything not mentioned at the voice “The price includes”.

Day: Sant Jacques – Guide d’Ayas hut

Meeting with the Guide in Saint Jacques – Champoluc, at the top of the Ayas valley. Gear check and briefing.

A short transfer by 4X4 will take us to Piani di Verra. From here we will hike to the Guide d’Ayas hut (3420 m), in about 3 hrs.

This first day will allow us to gently enter the world of Monte Rosa. On the way up we’ll have a break at the Mezzalama hut.

Day 2: Guide d‘Ayas Hut – West and Central Breithorn – Guide d’Ayas Hut

Today is the first day of high altitude! Our goals are the West Breithorn (4165 m) and the Central Breithorn (4160 m). Back to the same hut for the second night.

  • West Breithorn

  • On the summit of Breithorn

  • Climbing the Pollux

  • Fixed ropes on the Pollux

  • Pollux summit

  • The sharpe W ridge of the Castor

Day 3: Guide d’Ayas Hut – Pollux – Castor – Quintino Sella Hut

Today we will climb two 4000 ms peaks: Pollux (4091 m) and Castor (4228 m). The drops are not too big, being the Guide d’Ayas quite high… After reaching the summit of Castor via a tiny ridge, we will traverse on the other side and descend down to the Sella hut (3585 m), where w’ll spend the night.

Day 4: Quintino Sella Hut – Gnifetti Hut or Mantova Hut

Today will be them ore technical day, with the traverse of the Lyskamm Nose (4272 m) in the program. This climb always depends on the conditions of the mountain: in the early season we will probably cross the slope to the right, on snow, while later in the season, when the ice is coming out, we will climb the rocks (easy scramble) to the left of the slope and then do 2 pitches on steep ice.

After reaching the summit we will descend on the other side, climb the Piramid Vincent (4215 m) and then head to the Gnifetti or Mantova hut (100 m from each other), depending on the availability.

  • Relax at the Gnifetti Hut

Day 5: Gnifetti Hut – Margherita Hut

Today we will climb Balmenhorn (4167 m), Schwarzhorn (4322 m), Ludwigshohe (4342 m), Parrotspitze (4432 m), Zumsteinspitze (4563 m) and we finally reach the highest hut in the Alps, Margherita Hut, perched on the top of Punta Gnifetti (4554 m), where we will spend the night and witness one of the most stunning sunset of the Alps!

Sleeping at the Margherita hut is a unique experience in life; the summits we have climbed in the previous days will give us the perfect acclimatization for a good night!

Day 6: Margherita Hut – Sant Jacques

Today we’ll go back to the valley. We walk back through the glacier and reach the lifts at Punta Indren, then Gressoney, the Bettaforca col and with a short hike we will reach our cars and civilization.

Gear List

Warm Hat

Breathable layers

Windstopper

Thermal Layers

Mountaineering Trousers

Down Jacket

Gore-Tex (or similar) Jacket

Thin Gloves

Thick Gloves

Balaclava

Sun hat

Technical Gear

Warm mountaineering boots (B3)

Backpack 30-40 l

Classic Ice-Axe

Mountaineering crampons with anti-balling plates

Harness

Helmet

Trekking Poles (very useful)

1 carabiner with screw gate

1 Daisy Chain/Sling 120 cm

Sun glasses high protection

Goggle

Head Torch with new batteries

Snacks for the first/second day (power-bars, dry-fruit) - Every day it will be possible to buy picnics for the next day at the huts

Thermos/Flask/Camelback

Sun cream high protection + lips

Liner

Passport

Personal Medicaments