• Climb the Matterhorn in 4 Days

  • Climb the Matterhorn in 4 Days

  • Climb the Matterhorn in 4 Days

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  • Length

    4 days

  • Where

    Western Alps

  • Number of participants

    Guiding ratio 1:2 for the first 2 days – 1:1 for the climb of the Matterhorn (last 2 days)

  • Price

    2250 € pp

This 4-day program is the ideal solution for those who want to climb the Matterhorn in a short time, including an acclimatization and preparation ascent. This will also serve as an opportunity for the Guide to get to know you better and for you to “warm up” before the actual ascent.

There are many possible peaks, chosen based on your level, mountain conditions, and weather. While some are well-known (such as Dent du Géant), others are unknown to the general public and are ‘hidden gems’ that only local guides have known and used for many years to prepare their clients for the ascent of the Matterhorn.

The idea is to undertake a “technical” ascent (with terrain similar to that of the Matterhorn), but considerably shorter, so as not to overly strain the body in preparation for the final ascent.

The last two days will be dedicated to the ascent of the Matterhorn (from the Swiss or Italian side) and will be the culmination of a fantastic trip in the high mountains!

DatesLengthPriceAvailability
On demand6 days2250 € ppyes

The price includes:

  • UIAGM Mountain Guide fees for 4 days.
  • Any transport that is required during the course.
  • Group Equipment (i.e. rope, etc).

The price does not include:

  • All mountain huts & lift passes, for you and the guide. The guides expenses are split between the group members and are discounted in huts or lifts.
  • Lifts (if needed).
  • Anything not mentioned at the voice “The price includes”.
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Day 0: Meeting the Guide

Our usual starting point is Courmayeur.

Later this afternoon, the Guide will come to meet you at the hotel to introduce themselves, provide a briefing on the planned activities for the next days (including updated weather information) and review your gear, to ensure we are fully prepared for the adventure ahead.

Day 1-2: Preparation Climb

These days will be dedicated to preparation and acclimatization, in anticipation of our ascent of the Matterhorn. The 1:2 guide ratio will allow us to choose more technical climbs, accurately representing the terrain we will encounter on the Matterhorn, enabling us to familiarize ourselves with it and acclimatize to higher altitudes. We will also spend one night sleeping in a high-altitude refuge to better facilitate the acclimatization process.

The program is flexible: based on weather conditions, your level, and experience, the Guide will suggest the most suitable climbs (for instance, avoiding suggesting a climb you’ve already done in the past). We generally enjoy venturing off the beaten path and exploring lesser-known peaks, which are nonetheless beautiful—certainly more wild!

Day 3: Climb to the Hut

Finally, the long-awaited moment has arrived! Day 4 will be dedicated to the ascent to the mountain hut. Depending on the chosen option, this could be the Carrel Hut on the Italian side or the Hörnli Hut on the Swiss side.

CARREL HUT

We will take a 4X4 transfer to the Oriondè hut. From there, it will take approximately 3.5 to 4 hours to reach the Carrel Hut. The path starts off relatively easy, with few technical challenges. Upon reaching the Lion Col, we’ll encounter the first set of fixed ropes. Just before reaching the hut, we’ll need to climb the ‘Cheminèe,’ which is one of the most challenging parts of the Italian route. Shortly after, we will arrive at the hut.

HÖRNLI HUT

Using the lift system, we will cross into Switzerland and arrive at the Schwarzsee station. From there, an easy walk of about 2.5 hours will lead us to the Hörnli Hut.

Day 4: Summit Day

ITALIAN ROUTE

An early start! Just outside the hut, the first fixed rope awaits us… and it’s a notable one, known as the ‘Wake-up’ rope! Climbing the Matterhorn feels like stepping back in time, as every place and corner has its own name here, harkening back to the first ascent. It’s like being inside a museum: Rochers des Ecritures, Jordan ladder, Grand Corde, and Pic Tyndall are just a few of the names that remind us of the audacious and brave mountaineers who ventured up here long ago. We must be humble and reflect upon their courage.

We will ascend slowly but steadily and reach the summit (usually) in approximately 3.5 to 4 hours from the hut. The descent follows a similar timeframe, often taking even a bit longer than the ascent.

After a brief break at the hut, we will continue our descent to return to the Oriondè hut, where a refreshing beer and the awaiting taxi will be waiting for us!

SWISS ROUTE

From the Swiss side as well, we will begin our climb early since the Swiss route is slightly longer than the Italian route. The overall elevation gain is higher, but the difficulties are somewhat easier. It will take us approximately 4 to 5 hours to reach the summit. The descent can follow the same route (taking about 4 to 5 hours) or you may choose to take the Italian route if you opt for the Traverse of the Matterhorn, which, in our opinion, is the best way to conquer this mountain.

After returning to the Hörnli hut and taking the lift back to Cervinia, you also have the option to book an extra day to relax and stay at the Schwarzsee Hotel. On the following day, you can enjoy your cold beer while admiring the Matterhorn, reminiscing about the glorious day you had!

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Gear List

Clothes

Warm Hat

Breathable layers

Windstopper

Thermal Layers

Stretch Pants

Down Jacket

Gore-Tex (or similar) Jacket

Thin Gloves

Thick Gloves (5 fingers - no meets)

Balaclava

Sun hat

Technical Gear

Technical Boots (B2)

Backpack 30-40 l

Classic Ice-Axe

Mountaineering crampons (no aluminium) with anti-balling plates

Harness

Helmet

Trekking Poles

1 carabiner with screw gate

1 Daisy Chain/Sling 120 cm

Sun glasses high protection

Goggle

Head Torch with new batteries

Extra

Some Snacks for the climb (power-bars, gel, dry-fruit)

Thermos/Flask/Camelback

Sun cream high protection + lips

Liner

Passport

Personal Medicaments

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