UPDATE SUMMER 2023: The Carrel hut will be closed for renovation works in the summer of 2023. As a result, the ascent to the summit will be made from the Swiss side or, for highly trained climbers, starting from the Oriondè refuge on the Italian side.
The Matterhorn is considered an icon in the Alps, probably due to its emblematic shape. When we were young, we used to draw mountains like perfect pyramids, didn’t we? The Matterhorn’s iconic shape is made even more impressive by the absence of other high mountains in the surrounding area.
The legendary “King” has always attracted the attention of mountaineers. Climbing it from both the Italian and Swiss sides requires good climbing experience and intensive training. Although it does not pose significant technical difficulties (thanks to the presence of fixed ropes that facilitate the climb), it is still a challenging ascent with many exposed and difficult sections.
Depending on the chosen side of the climb, on the first day, we will either arrive at the Carrel on the Italian side or the Hörnli hut on the Swiss side. In the first case, the day will be quite challenging as the shelter is located at 3830 m. On the other hand, if the easier (but still challenging) pathway through Switzerland is chosen, it will take approximately 2.5 hours to walk from Schwarzsee station to reach the hut. The hut was completely rebuilt in 2015 on the 150th anniversary of the Matterhorn’s first ascent.
On the second day, the climb will take approximately 4 to 5 hours from both sides. The descent, which is always the most complicated part of climbing the Matterhorn, does not require abseiling. It’s all about having a deep knowledge of the route. The guide will always prioritize your safety, indicating the right direction at various crossroads that can mislead those unfamiliar with the mountain.
For those who want to climb the Matterhorn in the most complete and beautiful way, it is possible to cross it in two or three days (up the Swiss side and down the Italian side) with an overnight stay at the Carrel and/or at the Hörnli hut.